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Just a question to everyone out there

If a car has been running synthetic oil in the engine for the last couple years, would I have to keep using synthetic oil or could I go back to regular oil ??

 
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Stick to what it knows.

 
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if you tight for cash and want to keep useing synthetic. Goto wal mart they sell synthetic cheap its the wal-mart brand kind (tech 2000) but it is synthetic.

 
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Plus you can run the oil in your car for a bit longer than with non synthetic (5000km)

 
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You can go back... there is no real difference...

There used to be a myth that switching oils on a high KM car might cause leaks.. where this might be true to a point, it's only because Synthetic is thinner, and flows just that much better. But in reality, if you use a very thin mineral oil the same thing will happen.

But honestly, why would u bother changing if you've been using synth for so long already?

It's not all too much more $$$

 
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you can switch if you like..

Synthetic isn't technically thinner.. just more lubricatant.. Synthetic also has a positive charge that bonds onto the metal surface unlike dino oil. The detergent level is usually also higher. Not all Synthetic is the same ( I thought so @ one point too )

Best bang for the buck synthetic ( and I only use it now exclusively ) is Esso XD-3 0w-30. You have to buy it from NOCO in bulk.. a case of 4 x 4L is bout $78 after tax. They are also the same manufacturer as Mobil 1. but minus the cost. So for a lil under $20 with tax included for 4L of on par if not better IMO to mobil 1. All the UOA points to it.. you can't go wrong..

This guy has went 40K without changing oil.. and got great UOA. 99% hwy driven..
Link
but you know you can go extended intervals with synthetic. so it may save more also in the long run then switchin to dino

EDIT: Here's a few tips from another site

Run the oil just under the full mark by 1/2 qt to keep it off the crank you will get better gas milage and little more ponys by keeping the crank from hiting the oil in the pan.

and a reminder
It is common for engines to hold 1/2 Qt or more even with an extended amount of time wiht the drain plug open. The galleys and bearings and other places give the oil a lot of places to hide. So just make sure it doesn't read pass full on your stick and you'll be fine. Check the level after it gets hot and has been sitting for 1hr+.

EDIT AGAIN: The choice of oil filter is also very important.. they are not all created equal.. stay away from FRAM or motoMASter oil filter

 
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Thats funny you mention oil being in the motor even when drained. I knew a guy who used to drain his oil and then start the car up for a few seconds to get the old oil alll out. Too damn risky for my likeing.

 
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Sounds like good winter oil.. but I wouldn't use something that thin for a car that is driven hard or turbocharged.

 
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IMO.. most engine damage is caused by cold start ( initial start where oil hasn't lubricated the parts yet ) and the right foot. So to have an oil that is thinner that will get to the moving parts during initial start up ( without compromisin it's Viscocity ) sooner is better. It is also a shear stable oil.. unlike other oil where the larger would make it shear quicker. When the oil is up to operating temp, it will act like any 30 weight and can be driven hard. Any oil no matter wat weight, brand shouldn't be pushed during warm up ( start the car pull out of the driveway and go WOT )

I never looked into the what kinda requirement for oil benfits/cons there is for Turbo..

Another downside to XD-3 is that it's not energy conservant as it's a synthetic oil that is used primarily for heavy duty diesel

 
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My father-in law does that too. Hes a farmer and works on all his vehicles. He drains the oil, takes off the oil filter and then quickly starts up the car. The oil thats left over just shoots right out the oil plug hole. He showed me on my 91 teg one day when I was over there changing my oil.

 
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Ok, you should never down grade to minerial oil. If any changes to your cars engine oil it should be a minerial oil to semi-synthetic or synthetic, basically upscale and never down scale. Your at the point where you should be stcking with the syntheic oil. If you switched to minerial oil for long enough and then go to a synthetic you can end up with problems. Synthetic can dislodge oil that has been baked to the oil cavities and float around in your oiling system, which can cause potential engine damage. Whenever switching to a synthetic it is a good idea to flush your engine before making the change to prevent this occurance. Also the traditional saying that seals and gaskets can leak do to the chance from minerial to syntheic is somewhat a rare occurance. The reason this happens is due to the nature of the minerail oil soaked gasket the change is draastic enough for the engine to sweat or leak. todays gaskets and seals have much more integrity then they use to. Howevere u can argue this with older cars where upgraded seals are not avaliable.

Most engine damage can be due to start ups. Most of you may know the oil light on your instrument cluster on for a few seconds while starting. Your engine is without oil for those few seconds which make all the engine bearings have higher friction then obvious when oil system is pressurized. Your engine oil has three functions ... lubricate, clean, and dampen clearances. If you have ever have felt a turbo shaft out of a vechile you may notice some play, however when the oil system is pressurized the shaft will have no movement. This is how much of a difference oil can do for your car. There is a product out there called an acusump. This product recognizes your oil pressure and when it drops it pressurized your oiling system back to spec. Your oil pressure could drop under turns, accel, decel, and engine load changes. This system also recognizes your oil pressure drop when the car is on key on engine off. This means right before you turn that starter the oil system is pressurized to specifications. I made a post in the general section when i first became a moderator on gtcars, but nearly noone took the time to read it.

 
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acusump im interested in it do you have some info or a web site for it thanks

 
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The oil accumulator that i am familiar with is from canton racing. I know there are other companies out there that make a similar product. To find out more information and pricing go to accusump.com
:thumbsup:

 
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Pre-luber and dino oil FTW.

 
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ive switched back and forth a few times and havent had any issues. i noticed the car ran best on royal purple but my wallet didnt enjoy it all that much. mobil 1 is what i do run and this year withthe new motor and the turbo ill find something to suits the needs of both