Reached a dead end with my car
12-28-2004 | 01:20 AM
#1
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Reached a dead end with my car
Well my car has been in the shop for about 2 months now. the mechanic called me today to pick it up becuase he has no idea what is wrong with the car. I brought the car in because under hard throttle the car would cut off and loose all power. the car runs fine as long as your driving easy on the throttle. the car always seemed to have a rough idle since i got it. Since it was in the shop, i replaced the whole distributor, plugs, wires, iac sensor, map sensor, throttle position sensor. all other sensors were tested and nothing showed up wrong with them. timing was checked on the car and it was set to manufacturers specs. i bought a ecm for the same year and engine car that i have to see if it was a faulty pcm and nothing the car actually ran worse. the fuel pressure was tested and came out normal. o2 sensor was tested and nothing. I have no idea nor does the mechanic of what else the problem could be. he also said it wasnt a vacume leak. Anyone here have any other ideas of what it could be? im running out of options and would hate to have to junk the car after investing so much into it.
12-28-2004 | 02:02 AM
#2
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a friend just brought to my attention something called a neutral safety switch>? anyone know about this and could this be causing the problem? I did notice the problem started not long after adjusthing the throttle body cable. Where is it located?
12-28-2004 | 04:40 PM
#4
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the nuetral safety switch just makes it so you cant start the car, its like a kill switch kinda, just another way to do it, i dont think that has ne thign to do with acceleration rate. try the throttle body cable and mess with it, cause stuff usually doesnt go wrong unless its caused by something.
12-28-2004 | 06:49 PM
#5
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I tried that and it doesnt work. The idle of the car is all eradic and jumps up and down , sometimes it idles steady but you can feel its not running right car idle sounds like sh*t.
12-29-2004 | 12:17 AM
#6
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neutral safety switch can be removed without hurting drivability, have the injectors been cleaned, and the spray pattern checked? How's voltage (check with a good gauge or meter not the factory one) take to a mechanic that won't throw parts at a car (if it doesn't fix it he's not supposed to charge for it)
12-29-2004 | 04:53 AM
#7
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Well Monday im going to be taking it to a chevy dealer service station. Hopefully they will find what the problem is. I know its an initial 100$ diagnostic fee after that who knows.
01-07-2005 | 06:22 PM
#11
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well had my car at the chevy dealer. they cant find anything and are saying they dont want to work on the car because it was modified. chevy sucks. i give up. gonna probably donate the car.