Rep Power: 710

Well, today I began the process of turning the broke #ss 2.8 liter powered camaro, into a rice killer. I got the motor and transmission out without a hitch. Putting in the 350 was a little more challenging, but it was not a problem, yet. All I had to do was buy the motor mounts for an IROC and the tranny mount for a 700r4, and things bolted together smoothly. Putting the new motor mounts on was a chore though. They don't give you much room to get to the nuts on the inside of the crossmember. Headers in the car too was challenging. I ran out of ambition for the day and now the car has the new powerplant bolted in awaiting some more hours of labor figuring out what wires i need and what wires I can cut off to make it a little cleaner under the hood. Then once it fires and moves, take it down to the muffler shop and have the rest of the exhaust put on. Another question I have, is if a 14" air cleaner will fit under or into a 4" cowl hood. I'm converting the car to a carb and once the motor was sitting in the car, I noticed the stock hood doesn't have a prayer of fitting, especially with a 2" riser. So, I'm wondering if anyone has suggestions for a hood that will work. Also, with a fiberglass hood, what happens if you mess up the threads, is the hood junk or what. Thanks for the input.

 
Rep Power: 1069

the fiberglass hoods, the threads are metal nuts, I wouldn't worry much about stripping them.Harwood makes probably the nicest fiberglass hood, also goodmark makes a steel cowl hood

 
Rep Power: 710

Does anyone know if I can take out the black plastic box or shroud that the a/c lines go into on the firewall? I'm pretty sure that its not going to be able to stay in there, my header on that side won't fit. Also, if I do take it off is there going to be a hole that I'll have to cover up with some tin or something?

 
Rep Power: 1069

there is a hole in the firewall, if you remove the box you lose any heater as well as a/c, you cn fab a piece of metal to cover teh hole (not a big deal) and you can put a non a/c suitcase if you need heat (ever have to use defros? it won't work anymore)or what I've done is cut a corner off and use a coffee can to reform it.You shouldn't have a problem with teh headers fitting though, unless you have a big block

 
Rep Power: 710

So you are suggesting to just cut off a corner and tin the area i cut off or take the box off and tin the firewall? I dont have a big block but I can't seem to fit that header down between the block and that box. My new fiberglass hood just arrived today so i'll have to get some pics of the car on here somehow.

 
Rep Power: 1069

it won't fit from the top, go underneath. Just tin the box that is ther if you need clearance (I had to do that in an s10 with a v8 and still had a/c)

 
Rep Power: 710

Now my passenger side collector flange hits the solenoid on my starter. I need a smaller starter. The motor is a '76 sbc. The bolt pattern on the starter is staggered and its a 9 tooth sprocket. Anyone know of a stock replacement starter for another gm motor that will be smaller than the big A$$ starter that most 350's have? I've heard that a 4.3 liter starter may work? I also basically just ripped out the a/c box...boy did that make some more room...

 
Rep Power: 1069

try the 4.3 truck ones it's the same starter, but smaller

 
Rep Power: 769

good luck, just as long as you remember i am and always will be the fastest 3rd gen owner on this board

 
Rep Power: 710

I'll keep that in mind

 
Rep Power: 710

Ok, so now I have some questions about alternators...The camaro came with a small 3 wire alternator and the motor came with a big 2 wire alternator. I would prefer to use the big 2 wire alternator, but obviously a 3 wire harness wont fit in a 2 wire housing. does anyone know what wires do what on the 3 wire harness and alternator so I could possibly cut a wire out and not use it. The motor did fire today though...til it ran out of fuel. Hopefully I'll be able to finish it and take it to the muffler shop.

 
Rep Power: 1069

I think the only wires needed to work are the red (battery) and the brown (turns the regulator on) the other wire is gauge/idiot light.

Thought the same thing, and the car died on me at the...actually ON the dyno :banghead: hook up the 2 smaller wires (pink and i dont remember the other one, but the two on the connector) to a 12 volt ignition on source, and connect the biggest guage wire to the battery. You'll be fine like that.

 
Rep Power: 769

Sorry bout that arch ment to quote and accidently edited ur post

 
Rep Power: 710

Once again, thanks for the input and I'm trying to get some pictures on here so you guys can see my car, but they're all too big. I'll keep you posted on the futhering progress of the car. Hopefully I'll be able to drive it for the first time tomorrow

 
Rep Power: 710

Ok, so today I finished putting the fuel system together...needless to say the fuel pump needed a little tricking...seeing the car is no longer fuel injected, the computer was telling the fuel pump to shut off seeing the rest of the original system is no longer attached. So I just jumped the relay so that when the key is on, the pump is on. It did fire up and run today...idled and everything. it even burned the tires a little. Now I really can't wait until I can take it to the muffler shop and then get it back. The only things I have left is to make a bracket for the cooling fan to mount to, and to get the alternator situation figured out... I talked to a guy that my shop deals with when it comes to rebuilt starters and alternators and he said that for $25 he'd set up my alternator that was with the motor with a self energizing regulator so that all I would need would be just the one wire going to the battery and that is it. So now I'm going to call the muffler shop and make an appointment for Thursday to get the car in for the exhaust to be put on the rest of the way.