Rep Power: 715

OK here is my question, is it to hard to install a cam in a 3.4L Camaro?
and About the Pulley do they really make a good Difference?

 
Rep Power: 1069

caleb just did it so he can answer better on time frame of cam install, underdrive pulleys don't do much since they make the alternator less efficient, and they only free up about 5 hp (around 10% is the claim) your also going to have less coolant flow

 
Rep Power: 769

they make underdrive pulleys that include the alt/crank/water and kits that only include the alt/crank

thing is with underdrive kits like March for example (i have one i know) the alt underdrive is the same size as the one you get from kragen, the crank is undersized tho, donno bought the water one, didnt get it cuz of the coolant thing arch is talkin about and i always wanted to switch over to an elec water pump.

 
Rep Power: 910

hi, im caleb. a cam install should not be done by a novice. im no professional, but i know my stuff. if you know your stuff, go for it. it was very simple for me, and along with a head swap it took a total of 5 days taking my time in my garage, and i replaced everything internal except the crank, rods, and pistons, resealed everything except the rear main and oil pan.

as far as the gain...not too noticeable, but top end was improved. however this all depends on the cam. mine was only .469/.469 gross lift and 260 advertised duration.

 
Rep Power: 715

Well I’m not a Pro. But I have done some work on my cars like I Change the heads Gaskets on my Camaro (it took me like a week hehe) but I was just working like 2 hours a day. And the car is working really good now.
Anyways the only think I don’t know how to do is to adjust the heads valves so that the only thing that stoping me form geting a cam.(my cousin help me with that when i change the gaskets but he is not here anymore)
BTW does the sound change alot?

 
Rep Power: 910

its easy. comp describes it in their manual when you buy the cam, and most others will too. just rotate the crank until the exhaust valve begins to open. then adjust the intake valve. when theres zero lash (the pushrods stops moving) tighten the rocker nut another 1/2 turn. that intake valve is done. then rotate the crank some more until the intake valve goes up and back down, now you can adjust the exhaust valve. do the same as with the other valve.

 
Rep Power: 769

Dont do it like that, get #1 at TDC, then ajust both valves, turn the crank 90 degrees and ajust #8 (or what ever is next inline on your 6 bangers ) turn another 90 degrees and ajust 4...wait if you have a six then turn it 120 degrees between each cylinders valve ajustment.

 
Rep Power: 910

geez jes. you dont have any idea what youre talking about do you? if youre gonna explain it, explain it right. yes, its 120 degrees, but the firing order on our engines is 1-2-3-4-5-6 so its not #6 when you do #1.

and it is best to do it my way...that way the valve is on its base circle. when you do it at TDC theyre both closed, but not the furthest from open.

 
Rep Power: 1069

calebs way is the proper method for teh v6, also keeps down on confusion on any engine

 
Rep Power: 715

kk thx for the info caleb, also i saw u had post on "3.4/3.8 Performance" there are headers available for 3.4L but i have seen on other sites that they cant work with A/C. are does the same way? the Price on the PaceSetter Headers is really good BTW

 
Rep Power: 769

lol i didnt say #6 was next i said ajust what ever cylinder is next in your firing order, i still think my method is easier but what ever for each their own, then you dont get confused on which valve to ajust n crap. Just do it my way you'll be happier.

 
Rep Power: 990

The PaceSetter 3.4L headers work with A/C.