1967 Camaro $14,200 neg
#1
1967 Camaro $14,200 neg
1967 Camaro SS Clone with a 327ci, full roller engine (roller lifters roller rockers, and roller cam). The engine has timing gears instead of a timing chain so it makes a whining sound like its supercharged. It was rebuilt professionally less than 3,500 miles ago. I have driven it about 350 miles in three years with one trip that was about 220 miles (round trip). It is garage kept with a car cover on at all times! Its never taken out in the winter but started up in the garage regularly to keep the engine fresh. Oil is changed before every summer and winter even though it only has a hundred or so miles on it. Tranny was rebuilt the same time the engine was and shifts smoothly and is very strong. If you don’t know about Muncies, the M-22 was called the 'Rock Crusher' for a reason. It is the strongest Chevy manual transmission you could get for a muscle car! Clutch is strong with tons of life left on it. She has a 12bolt posi rear end w/ 3.73 gears in it. On my road trip with the car, she got about 19-20mpg at around 60-65mph. I have driven the car so little before my trip that i did not know my tires needed to be aligned as bad as they did... The driver side tire is going bald on the outside and will need to be replaced. Would have been an easier fix had i caught it sooner...
The frame on the car is SOLID! Not a bad spot on it. Subframe is the same way. Floor pans and trunk spotless and I’m not sure, but very well may be original. The car came from I think South Carolina 2 owners ago. I cannot validate that 100%, but there is VERY LITTLE rust on the car.
As far as the body goes, she does have some blemishes. The worst of these has to be where the quarter panel ties into the roof. There are bubbles on both sides. I can assure you that it is NOT rust! Previous owner was concerned about it being rust, so he popped one of the larger bubbles, only to find there had been an error in the prep work for the paint job. These bubbled areas are the biggest problem on the car! One other larger area of concerned is the driver side door. It had been shaven down on one side to make the gaps of the car line up before paint. Unfortunately, they took away too much metal and the door skin eventually broke away from that area. It is very hard to see when the car is parked or being driven or even being looked over briefly, but it does becomes noticeable when inspecting the car to buy, when looking the car over well, or when getting apprized. I have a replacement door that comes complete with glass that had been primered to prevent rust. It only needs some prep work and paint.
The engine is not original. The engine codes read as followed:
On the front of the block, it reads:
18C139268 T0621HH
Behind the block, its:
GM
3914660
And the cylinder head #'s are (drivers side):
3947041
F10 8
I have tried to discribe the car as best i can and am beging openly honest about all good and bad parts of the car. If there is anything i forgot to mention, please let me know and i will inform you the best i can!! Also, in addition to, I will give you all extra parts i have for the car (Extra gauge cluster bezel, dash pad, weather stripping, 2 front bumpers, extra rear bumper, driver side door, books, and anything else that i might have missed). Hopefully we can work something out!!
Thanks!!
Craig Karduck
P.S. I live in state college PA and need to sell the car before winter or i will strip it down and repaint it myself. $14,200 neg cjk16@scasd.org
PM for pics (I dont have 15 posts, so i cant put a link to any web sites or even post pics of the car...sry)
The frame on the car is SOLID! Not a bad spot on it. Subframe is the same way. Floor pans and trunk spotless and I’m not sure, but very well may be original. The car came from I think South Carolina 2 owners ago. I cannot validate that 100%, but there is VERY LITTLE rust on the car.
As far as the body goes, she does have some blemishes. The worst of these has to be where the quarter panel ties into the roof. There are bubbles on both sides. I can assure you that it is NOT rust! Previous owner was concerned about it being rust, so he popped one of the larger bubbles, only to find there had been an error in the prep work for the paint job. These bubbled areas are the biggest problem on the car! One other larger area of concerned is the driver side door. It had been shaven down on one side to make the gaps of the car line up before paint. Unfortunately, they took away too much metal and the door skin eventually broke away from that area. It is very hard to see when the car is parked or being driven or even being looked over briefly, but it does becomes noticeable when inspecting the car to buy, when looking the car over well, or when getting apprized. I have a replacement door that comes complete with glass that had been primered to prevent rust. It only needs some prep work and paint.
The engine is not original. The engine codes read as followed:
On the front of the block, it reads:
18C139268 T0621HH
Behind the block, its:
GM
3914660
And the cylinder head #'s are (drivers side):
3947041
F10 8
I have tried to discribe the car as best i can and am beging openly honest about all good and bad parts of the car. If there is anything i forgot to mention, please let me know and i will inform you the best i can!! Also, in addition to, I will give you all extra parts i have for the car (Extra gauge cluster bezel, dash pad, weather stripping, 2 front bumpers, extra rear bumper, driver side door, books, and anything else that i might have missed). Hopefully we can work something out!!
Thanks!!
Craig Karduck
P.S. I live in state college PA and need to sell the car before winter or i will strip it down and repaint it myself. $14,200 neg cjk16@scasd.org
PM for pics (I dont have 15 posts, so i cant put a link to any web sites or even post pics of the car...sry)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)