Rep Power: 0

Ok guys I've been working on the exterior of my car. I have the gfx I think looks the best and have always wanted. I have the SLP CME for the rear, GM RS side skirts, and the Xenon front peice. Both the front and sides are used and I would like to do as much of the prep work as I can. The sides are the correct color and aren't in bad condition but I'm going to have everything painted so it'll match better. Do I just have to scuf up the paint then and if so what grit of sandpaper should I used?
For the front peice the paint is the wrong color and it's actually chipping. What's the best way to remove all the paint that's on it right now?

 
Rep Power: 1036

I really have nothing to contribute, but I didnt know you were getting gfx, so I think it will look sweet when you get them on!

 
Rep Power: 819

if you just want to scuff it...use a scuff pad. if you actually want to use sand paper to get it ready for paint use some 320 that 3M makes. that is the best paper i have ever used. For the part thats chipping start at a lower number grit, say 80, and sand it until all the paint is off and than move to higher grit numbers like 120, 200...ending with 320.

 
Rep Power: 1036

I think you might want it a little smoother than that...

 
Rep Power: 741

if u use 80 on anything ur gonna want to primer it to get the sanding scratches out.

if a body shop is gonna paint it then id go ahead and let them sand them cause it wont take them 10 mintues with a DA and ur gonna need a DA to feather out the chips ne ways.

 
Rep Power: 1069

if it's chipped get some aircraft stripper (it's safe for plastic) wash it with wax and grease remover before sanding anything, scuff it with a red scotchbrite pad, prime it if you want, or let the painter do it (probably best so you know you use a compatible primer all brnds are not the same and can cause lifting or other issues)

 
Rep Power: 829

Def. make sure the prep is right- if its not prepped right even the best painter can't make it look good...

IMO- If you are unsure I would just let a painter do it. The parts are small enough the added cost of having them prep them will be minimal compared to the cost of having them painted, flake off and get them re-preped and painted..

BTW- I have almost the same parts that are going on my car and they have been in my possession for almost a year now- so when spring rolls around nobody better say I copied Chad!!

 
Rep Power: 741

dont get the **** on ur hands. i used it on a hood and along with takeing all the paint and rust off the hood it also ate a pretty nice hole in the concrete. air craft stripper is the ****.

 
Rep Power: 914

Yes! The Red LS1 gets it's skirts! Finally! How long did it take you to decide this Chad?

 
Rep Power: 0

Well I've always wanted the Xenon front and either the Wings West or RS sides since they are basicly the same thing. I was never really sure about what rear peice I wanted. I'm actually thinking about getting the RKSport CME instead since it seems like everyone is trying to buy up the SLP CME's. Plus I could sell mine and more than make up for the costs.

 
Rep Power: 759

A double post by Chad??? I think that is a first...

 
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What are you talking about?

 
Rep Power: 1069

never bothered my hands (of course I read the label where it says wear gloves )

 
Rep Power: 819

actually i was just talking to my friend about getting some parts primered...he said 180 and than prime it, then sand it to make sure its flat or w/e. sand again with somethin else i dont remember, and than paint it....

 
Rep Power: 1069

I do 400 before primer (I was taught doing show cars most body men can't do that work they learned production work which is fast, and as good as most factory jobs) sand the primer with 600 or 800 depending on color (I may start with 220 if it's primer surfacer aka sprayable bondo)